Here is my version of the popular Jaywalker sock from magknits. I changed so much in order to get it to fit my fat thigh and small foot. The yarn I used was from elann.com; it is called Esprit and is very similar to Cascade's Fixation. It is way too thick to use a size 0 needle and that is what I would need at 80 stitches. So . . . . my first change was to lose two stitches from each pattern repeat. I cast on 68 stitches using size 6 needles. I was very worried about the sock stretching enough to go over my heel. I knit the ribbing and switched to a size 5 to begin the pattern in the cuff. An inch or two of that and then I went to a size 4. Thus I shaped the cuff to fit my weird leg. At the very end I dropped two more stitches per repeat by doing the double decrease without the K f&B inc.
In my neverending quest for trying new heels and toes, I chose the Balbriggan heel. (from Ireland and Nancy Bush)
I knit the flap over half the stitches (30) using a ktbl, p repeat across the front and purl all across the back. It's very textured and I like it better than the plain k1,p1 heel flap. I switched to stockinette to turn the heel and fiddled with Nancy's numbers because I had 30 stitches and her directions were for 40. Figured it out, though, and the heel turned nicely.
Kitchnered the heel. Worked beautifully. Left a very smooth piece to stand on. Then I pick up the 30 sts I had used up for the heel and began the foot. No gusset decreases. I hate decreasing for the gusset. No good reason. Just hate. I did use a new pick up for me. I picked up only one strand and knitted it tbl to close it up a bit. This was great. You cannot feel a seam. I think that seam is what I don't like on traditional heels.
Now for a new toe. I chose the round toe which decreases much like the top of a hat. If you hate Kitchner (I don't understand why) this is an option for you. It merely spaces K2tog decreases around the foot with ever decreasing even rows in between the decrease rows. All of this is in Folk Socks by Nancy Bush.
They are finished. They slide on nice and easy. I'm pleased, most of all by the Balbriggan heel. I will definitely use that again because it cups my heel so well.