Vertical is always best

I started knitting (50 st cast on) at the brownish stripe at the right side of back and knitted until the back was able to reach from shoulder bone to shoulder bone with a tiny bit of stretch. The bottom border is 7 sts of seed st; the basic pattern is k3 rows, p 1 row. I alternated using two skeins of Iro in order to avoid larger areas of dark patches.

I determined how wide to make the shoulders by trying it on. Then I decreased about 2 inches at one time followed by decreasing one st every 2 rows 4 times in order to make the neckline. I just kept trying it on to make sure it fit.
I ended each front with 8 rows of seed stitch to mock the bottom border.
My adaptation to accommodate the "girls" was to add 4 stitches to the length of the front. This was the only way I could think of to create the effect of a short row in sideways knitting.

I used most of 4 skeins of Iro. I knit the body on a size 11 which kept the fabric from being too firm and then switched to a size 10 for the 8 rows of seed st in front. I sewed the shoulders using mattress st. I left the neck as it was. The chain selvedge I knit there was sufficient finishing. I did crochet crab st around the armholes, mostly to prevent them from stretching.

It was quick and I do like it. I will block it and stretch it just a bit lengthwise.

Baby Alpaca Grande Vest Adapted

Stopped by Charlotte Yarn and Sandy had just displayed her store sample of this vest. Tried it on and was hooked. So soft. So warm. In accordance with my Stashalong rules for 2008, I bought it, cast on and completed it. Here it is.I have worn it almost constantly since I bound off. It's like a constant hug.

The pattern is a one size fits someone other than me, so I tweaked it. Don't I always? First I added a cabled braid up the center back.This is Ensign's Braid from Barbara Walters Book 2. It is a 24 stitch, 24 row repeat. You could add any cable design you like; just center it on the back. I have charted the pattern for Ensign's braid and will share it if you like. Just leave me an email address and I'll send it to you.
I also added to the armscye. The original pattern just folds over the piece and seams the two sides. This forms a very tight, ill-fitting armscye. I had to insert a panel of ribbing as an afterthought, but I can tell you a better way to do this.

The pattern begins with a cast on for 2X2 ribbing which forms your bottom ruffle. Work this as normal (I added 12 stitches to the whole thing to help it fit me.) At the end of the ruffle, you just decrease to 1/2 the number of stitches. It's on the first row of these stitches that you add in any cable pattern you like.

I added 2-3 inches to the length of the back because I wanted an 18 inch armscye to form the 9" depth of armhole that I need.

Then the pattern has you increase to the original number of stitches and complete the top ruffle for the shawl collar. At this point, I would add stitches to form a more fitting armhole.

Remember the flat line where you bind off some armhole stitches before you start a gradual increase to get the the shoulder. (see below) We are going to create that space so the armhole will not bind.
Ater increasing for the final ruffle, cast on 2-8 sts (depending on size) at the end of the first two rows. Continue to knit all stitches in the 2X2 ribbing. Sew the side seam by joining only the 2X2 rib sections.

Even if the pattern fit me as it was, I would add 2 stitches to modify the underarm fit.

I did use the Plymouth pattern, N026, and used a bit more than 4 skeins of Plymouth Alpaca Grande.

If you have questions, leave me a note in the comment section or email me at jprater@carolina.rr.com.